I have not made any amigurumi for a long time and after making my latest design I have succumbed to the joys of it again.
It's always dificult to come up with a new concept, something to make your character stand out from the crowd.
For the most part Amigurumi starts off the with simple principle of the magic circle and the mathematical method of increasing each round by the number you started with. Generally this is 6.
The fun part is creating a character to make your Amigurumi unique. Sometimes this can be done with the yarn that you use.
For my latest Amigurumi design I have taken the plunge and used chenille yarn. This makes a larger finished piece due to the chunky yarn. It also makes a soft squishy and tactile creation.
I was inspired by Wolf Handicraft on Instagram who made my Rudolf Pretzal head with Chenille yarn.
Using a new yarn came with a steep learning curve and whilst the arms and legs were made without a hitch, the head was a different matter. I created a Toad (Thrown away in absolute disgust).
The only reason I am sharing it with you is to show you that no matter how much we may have learnt along the way, we all take a few steps backwards from time to time, and its about working through the bad makes and learning from them.
My Final bear measures 38cm in height.
PDF Version of Blue Bear
I hope you enjoy making my Blue Bear, the free pattern can be found below. If however, you would like to have a copy that you can save and print out then please purchase a the PDF patttern of Blue Bear in my store.
Please feel free to share the link to this blog post so others can make him too.
What you will need
A 3.5 mm hook (I found using a larger hook made the finished piece to loose).
3 balls of Chenille cygnet yarn in sky (4870)
1 ball of Chenille cygnet yarn in misty grey (4029)
4 sets of safety joints for arms and legs 25mm
2 sets of safety eyes 12mm
1 safety nose 19mm
Blue Bear kits
Blue Bear kits are available in which all the safety joints and eyes and nose are included as well as a printout of the pattern for the bear and a pattern for a set of clothes (hat and dungarees).
These are currently preorders and kits will be sent out 8th August 2020.
I'm tempted to call this a low sew bear as the only sections that we sew on are the ears and muzzle. The arms and legs are click joints and the head uses a surface crochet technique to join the body in a firm and secure manner.
A few things to note; the head is made in the same way as many amigurumi heads, however I use the starting circle as the front of the face and not the top. This gives the bear a nicer feel and the rounds help to accentuate the curve of his face. It also gives a more promenant dimple when we come to shaping the bear's head and inserting the eyes.
Even though I had lots of yarn left after making the arms and legs, I started with a new ball for the head and again for the body, as I didn't want to have to join a new ball part way through a section.
We leave the head partly worked when we do our surface crochet for the body and must remember to add our safety eyes before we stuff and close up.
As we are using teddy joints to connect our arms and legs we need to make the arms and legs first.
If you have never used safety joints before then I have two videos to show you how to do this and will share as I go through the pattern.
We do not use the magic circle in this pattern as the chenille yarn tends to fray.
Lets get started....
Arms (make 2)
Rnd 1 - With blue, chain 2, 6 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook
Rnd 2 - Inc in each stitch (12)
Rnd 3 to 4 - sc rnd
Rnd 5 - sc 2, create a puff stitch, sc 9
Rnd 6 - 15
Insert joint between row 14 and 15
Make sure your joints are placed to make a left and right arm.
Stuff the arm
Rnd 19 - Dec in each stitch (6)
Tie off and whip stitch to close
Legs (make 2)
We start our legs with a chain, we work in rnds, up one side of the chain and down the other (your 3sc will curve you over the chain to the other side).
Its best to mark the start of each rnd to keep your place.
Rnd 1 With brown yarn, Ch 6,2sc in 2nd, sc3, 3sc , now working on other side of chain sc 4, sc 1 (13)
Rnd 2 2sc x2, sc 4, 2sc x 3, sc 4 (18)
Rnd 3 2sc x 3, sc 6, 2sc x 3 sc 6 (24)
Foot base is now complete and we will now work the top of the foot.
Rnd 4 sctbl
Rnd 5 sc rnd
Rnd 6 Sc 2, sc2tog x2 sc 18 (22)
Rnd 7 Sc 1, sc2tog x2, sc 17 (20)
Rnd 8 Sc1, sc2tog, sc17 (19)
Rnd 9 Sc1, sctog, sc 16 (18)
Start to stuff the foot
Rnd 10 Reduce to 15
Rnd 11-19 sc rnd (15)
insert joint in between row 14 and 15.
dec sc3 x3 (12)
dec x 6
whip stitch to close.
We now move on to the head, please use a new ball of yarn for the head. The left over yarn from making the arms and legs can be used to make the ears later on.
Rnd1 - Ch 2 and 6 sc into the 2nd chain from hook
Rnd 2 - Inc in in stitch around (12)
Rnd 3 - *Inc, sc 1, repeat this 5 more times (18)
Rnd 4 - *Inc, sc 2, repeat from * 5 more times (24)
Rnd 5 - *Inc, sc 3, repeat from * 5 more times (30)
Rnd 6 - *Inc, sc 4, repeat from * 5 more times (36)
Rnd 7 - *Inc, sc 5, repeat from * 5 more times (42)
Rnd 8 - *Inc, Sc 6, repeat from * 5 more times (48)
Rnd 9 - *Inc, sc 7, repeat from * 5 more times (54)
Rnd 10 - *inc, sc8, repeat from * 5 more times (60)
Rnd 11 - *Inc, sc 9, repeat from * 5 more times (66)
Rnd 12 -18 - sc rnd (66)
Rnd 19 - *Dec, sc 9, repeat from * 5 more times (60)
Rnd 20 - *Dec, sc 8, repeat from * 5 more times (54)
Rnd 21 - *Dec, sc 7, repeat from * 5 more times (48)
Rnd 22 - *Dec, sc 6, repeat from * 5 more times (42)
Rnd 23 - *Dec, sc 5, repeat from * 5 more times (36)
We will return to working the head, so keep your yarn in place. Add a stitch marker to keep loop open.
Stuff the head at this point to help you see the shape of the head. We will remove some of the stuffing to add safety eyes.
Make dimples for eyes between rnd 6 and 7 and approximately 9 stitches apart.
To do this I use some strong yarn that will not snap when being firmly pulled. I create an X shape where my first eye dimple will be and pull firmly back towards the back opening of the head. I repeat this process for the second eye. Return to the first dimple and repeat to make the dimple more pronounced. Do this as many times as you need to until you are happy that your dimples are deep enough and holding shape.
You can now remove some of the stuffing and add your safety eyes within your dimples. Once secure put the stuffing back.
Surface crochet preperation for the neck/body
To prepare the location of where we will start our body, we need to surface crochet at the bottom of the head.
Rnd 1 - count from the centre (nose area) under the chin to rnd 12, join with a single crochet, you will be creating an oval shape with 18 sc.
We do this by inserting our hook behind each stitch, yo pulling the yarn back through and finishing off the sc. (It is similar to a back post sc).
Do 3 sc then start to turn, 4 sc to make the turn, 5 sc straight to get to your final turn of 4sc and 2sc to get you back to where to began.
Leave the yarn in place, do not cut and return back to the head. Our body section will start with Rnd 2.
Pick up the yarn we left at end 23 of the head
Rnd 24 - *Dec, sc 4, repeat from * 5 more times (30)
Rnd 25 - *Dec, sc 3, repeat from * 5 more times (24)
Rnd 26 - *Dec, sc 2, repeat from * 5 more times (18)
Rnd 27 - *Dec, sc 1, repeat from * 5 more times (12)
Rnd 28 - *Dec x 6 (6)
Leave a long tail and whip stitch to close.